Saturday 9 February 2008

Tet - Welcoming the year of the Rat

Despite what locals tell you as they urge you to travel to other places during Tet, HCMC is not a boring, quiet or sad place to be for Vietnamese New Year. We've had a great week here soaking up the pre and post Tet atmosphere and would say that this is one of the best times of the year to be in Ho Chi Minh City.

Now on the third day of the new lunar year, most businesses and shops are still closed, many people are visiting their hometowns in the country and the traffic is still (relatively) light. However our neighbourhood is as busy as ever, with gatherings of families and friends spilling out onto the alley and some serious card games going on, often enjoyed by dozens of spectators. The decrease in traffic though has been a good chance for us to show off our shiny new push bikes and cruise around the city. It's been good to get around and feel more relaxed on the road. I'd say we've only been averaging one near death experience per trip, what a breeze!

New Year's Eve showed yet again how Vietnam is a curious mixture of the old and new. We spent the early part of the evening in the city. The two main streets were decked out with an abundance of flowers, lights and rats, which look more like mice or sometimes kangaroos. Though there were 2 hours to go, the street by the river was crammed with people waiting for the midnight fireworks. This being Vietnam, everyone was waiting with their beloved 2 wheel vehicle. I've never seen such a sea of motorbikes jammed into one place.

We then came back to our house before midnight. When 12 o'clock came around, church bells rang, a ship horn blew and we watched from our 4th floor roof as people knelt by their special Tet altars, set up on balconies and in doorways, and prayed to welcome the New Year. We looked out over the patchwork of narrow multi storied houses that is our neighbourhood, there was a palpable stillness and reverence. However it did seem to be mainly older women performing this ritual. I watched directly below as our neighbour waved incense while her sons texted frenetically on their mobiles. And then from behind us the explosion of fireworks began!

Chuc Mung Nam Moi!

Wednesday 6 February 2008

Sunburst Saigon

Sunburst in central Saigon

Ao Dai Blur